23 April 2010; 7.21pm: Okay I cheated today a bit, but for good reason. I knew that at 21.07 I’d probably be on the U-bahn, but at 7.21 I’d be at a football stadium amongst rowdy hooligans cheering on FC St. Pauli. So, I set my alarm for the reverse, and set out to St. Pauli. My ticket was in the standing room only section, which means in the heart of the club. Flags, drums, self-appointed cheerleaders with megaphones with their backs to the football action. There was not a single moment of silence, and a wide-variety of songs. I found myself wondering how anyone in this mass could possibly be paying attention to the actual match when there seems to be so much attention on the mob-mentality. The songs and chants varied from harsh German shouting to St. Pauli to the tune of Hey Jude. How can you hate a team that uses Beatles songs in their chants? Answer: You cannot.
I was clearly out of place, and felt like Elijah Wood in Green Street Hooligans. Don’t get me wrong, I’m a life long football supporter (Glory glory Man Uniiiited! Wir lieben München, jawohl!) and have been to my fair share of matches, but always in the seats at a safe distance from the rough and tough supporters. I tried my best to keep up, but it was sensory overload at it’s purist - chants, jumping, rhythmic clapping, people hitting me on the head.
Then came the goal celebration. A mosh pit. That’s what happens. A mosh pit. It’s the equivalent of being at a New Found Glory show in the early ’00s. After the first tor (re: goal), I found myself hoping there would be no more for the “coolest team in German football.” What was the final score, you ask? Oh, why 6-1 St. Pauli, of course. I can’t wait for these bruises to show themselves and this possible concussion to be realised.
Easily the best moment of the night was the end. Not because it was over. I never want football to be over no matter how many times I get stepped on my a man 3 times my height. But because the team stays on the field and one section at a time walks around the stadium celebrating with the supporters. Lined up, they hold hands and bow in unison. When they reached our section, who was still singing one of their celebratory songs, the team sang along. This is football at it’s purest. This is what football should be. There’s a genuine camaraderie not only as a team, but as an entire community - including the people who dedicate their lives to the club. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t tear up a bit. They don’t call it The Beautiful Game for nothing.
Challenge of the Day: Attempting to appear as little American as possible surrounded by hardcore St. Pauli supporters.
Learnt German Word of the Day: Hell - light (in colour).
